Nad's Fascinating SIHH 2014 Adventure A Second Perspective

Nad's Fascinating SIHH 2014 Adventure

A Second Perspective

Two weeks ago I attended SIHH 2014 in Geneva, Switzerland where I live-blogged on many of the new Panerai model introductions, and today I have a different SIHH 2014 perspective to share with you.

As many readers of Jake's Panerai World know, the ultimate web forum for all things Panerai is Paneristi.com. Paneristi.com has many fascinating members who regularly post interesting stories and information, and in my minds eye, the two most interesting members are Hammer and Nad, and Nad recently posted a fascinating photo-centric story on Paneristi.com about his 2014 SIHH experience which I highly recommend checking out.

Nad is pictured above at SIHH 2014 in Geneva Switzerland, and in the photo below we see a wrist shot he took of his PAM00399, which is an extremely cool and rare Panerai.

LiveBlogging Panerai SIHH 2014

Panerai @ SIHH 2014

January 20-24. Geneva, Switzerland

SIHH is a private event for guests of the exhibiting brands, and I had the privilege of attending the SIHH show this last week in Geneva, Switzerland, and it was mind-blowing!

SIHH History

First a little bit of history. SIHH is the acronym for Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, which is one of two major horological trade-shows that take place every year in Geneva, Switzerland. The other major horological show is BaselWorld. BaselWorld was founded in 1925, and has grown significantly over the past 89 years to become the largest horological trade show in the world. BaselWorld today features over 2100 exhibitors, from 45 different companies. BaselWorld is open to the general public, and also features many companies that specialize in precious gems.

Twenty three years ago, in 1991, as the Richmont Group began growing, it sought to start its own trade show, that was not open to the general public. Instead, it was only open to retailers, distributors and the media. In 1991, the following brands attended the very first SIHH Show: Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Piaget, Gérald Genta, and Daniel Roth. Today, in 2014 The 24th year of the SIHH Show featured 16 watch brands which include, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piquet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Gleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry, Richard Mille, Rouger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, & Van Cleef & Arpels.

This year was the first SIHH I have ever attended, and it completely blew my mind!!! Ironically, when I mentioned to several of my friends who have been in the horological business for decades, that I had been invited to attend SIHH, they kept telling me how envious they were, and repeated that they really wished they could attend. I thought this was kind of strange, and didn't understand what the big deal was, until I walked in the door of SIHH, and was stunned with the amazing world that unfolded in front of me. 

I know understand why there were envious. Approximately 14,000 guests attended SIHH this year, from around the planet, of which 12% were journalists. The theme at this years SIHH was, Horologie, A Childe Of Astronomy, which was chosen since so many of the watches featured had amazing movements in them that were like miniature universes.

SIHH is held at a convention center in Geneva, located near the Geneva Airport, named PalExpo, and from what I learned, it has one of the longest build times of any trade-show in the world, at 4-5 weeks. Meaning, that the attending brands begin building out their stores over a month before the invitees attend. If I didn't know any better, I would think I was walking into an enormous, elegant mall, with 24 dedicated watch brand stores. Each brand has its own store, which is highly customized to be an extension of its personality, and the Panerai venue was absolutely stunning!!!

First Class Everything

SIHH is enormous, and in many ways it seemed like attending a black tie event, without black ties. In other words, the vast majority of people were wearing elegant business suits. In between all the brand venues/stores, there are restaurants that have an amazing assortment of superb food and drink. When you attend SIHH, there is a magic in the air, and you get the idea you are attending a very special event. Everything about SIHH was absolutely First-Class in every way possible.

Panerai first exhibited at SIHH in 1999. Panerai CEO Angelo Bonati is pictured below chatting with an friend in front of the Panerai Section at SIHH 2014, just as the show began.

Angelo Bonati is considered to be chief architect of the modern Panerai company, and under his decades long leadership, Panerai has grown into a colossal success, which continues to innovate and grow at an unusually fast pace.

I was extremely fortunate to gain the first appointment to for a journalist to preview all the new Panerai models in person, and I immediately published these first wrist shots of the all-new highly limited-edition 45MM Panerai Chronograph models (Reference PAM00518, PAM00519, and PAM00520], which took my breath away!!! These stunning beauties are unique in many senses. Particularly, they are the first Panerai chronograph models to feature the Historic Panerai 1940 case.

This next Oro Rosso (Red gold) beauty has a chocolate brown California dial, and it's also 45MM. I think one of the most interesting things about these new Panerai Chronographs, is how vintage looking their design language is. I mean these models, literally look like they were made in the 1940s in every way, yet they are brand new, and all of them feature a beautiful Minerva movement.

Vintage Panerai Museum Pieces

The Panerai Exhibition at SIHH featured a small collection of pieces from the Panerai museum. There has been much speculation over the years about how many vintage Panerai watches were made, as well as how many of them are still in existence, and of course, how many of the the ones that still exist are known or have been identified by collectors? 

In other words, I am certain that in the world there are still many undiscovered vintage watches that are tucked away in drawers, that have been dismissed as worthless old pocket watches or something like that. My best guess is that Rolex made less than 1000 pieces and it could be as few as 300 pieces, and keep in mind 100% of the vintage Rolex-made Panerai watches were NEVER available to the public. I believe today there are approximately 200 known examples of vintage Panerai watches throughout the world, and I further believe that the Officine Panerai Museum Collection consists or approximately 50-60 pieces, of which several were on display at SIHH 2014. These are very rare birds, indeed...

Reference 3646

This first beauty is a Reference 3646 which was made between 1936 and 1938, and it features a classic California Dial.

52MM Mare Nostrum Prototype

This next watch is an extremely rare Radiomir Panerai Chronograph "Mare Nostrum" which was made in 1942 or 1943. This watch never went into production, and is mythical among vintage Panerai collectors. This tool watch is very large, even by todays standards, at 52MM!

Reference 6152

This second beauty is a Panerai 6152, which was made in 1952 by Rolex for Panerai. Today this would be classified as a "Base" Panerai since it has no complication beyond the second hand. In my opinion, this 6152 and 6154 base models, are the most timeless and beautiful vintage Panerai models, due to their supreme tool-watch simplicity. 

The photo below shows the 6152 (pictured above) from the side view, and you notice it features an standard 8MM Rolex "Big Crown" winding crown. This watch is truly sublime and without pier. A true timeless Italian beauty, just like Sophia Loren.

Reference 6152-1

This next vintage Panerai is a 6152-1 which features an 8-Day Angelus movement, with a second hand sundial located just to the right of the 9 O'clock marker. Notice is has the "BREV. ITAL." etching on the front face of the crown guard.

Reference 6152 Lefty

This next vintage Luminor Panerai is a 6152 Lefty, with the Marina Militare dial designation. This watch was made for left handed people to wear on their right wrist.

Panerai Luminor Lefty SIHH Preview Reference 000557

I originally published the following story on December 3, 2013, and here is a photo of the 00557 in the flesh:

...Panerai Model Introduction...

Panerai Luminor Lefty

SIHH Preview

47MM Reference 00557

I first heard the rumors months ago that Panerai would be introducing a left-handed version of the ultra-successful Reference 00372, which I wear, and it turn out they were true! 

Staying true to their heritage, Panerai had the wisdom to come out with a left-handed version of "The Panerai." This is great news for left-handed Panerai fans, and it is just another detail that sets Panerai apart from other brands.

Below is the contents of the Official Panerai press release which discusses the detail in this new model:

LUMINOR 1950 LEFT-HANDED 3 DAYS – 47mm

There are some watches which on their first appearance come across as true icons of a brand, from their ability to communicate their identity and history through their design. One of these is the Luminor 1950 3 Days – 47mm, the clean lines of which have an immediate appeal for enthusiasts looking for a model in the simplicity of which all the vintage fascination of Panerai watches can be found. The Luminor 1950 3 Days is now also available in a version enhanced by another historic detail: Officine Panerai presents the left-handed version, in which the winding crown and the crown-protecting device are at 9 o’clock, on the left side of the case.

Left-handed watches are very much part of the history of Panerai. The commandos of the Italian Navy had to wear several instruments on their wrists at once: not only the watch, indispensable for synchronising their attacks and for keeping track of the length of time spent in the depths of the sea, but also the compass and depth gauge. For convenience, some of them preferred to wear the watch on the right wrist, and for them Panerai created the watch with the winding crown on the left side, as can be seen in some rare contemporary examples which still survive today.

The steel case of the Luminor 1950 Left-Handed 3 Days has a unique detail which distinguishes it from the classic Luminor 1950 case: the caseband has a cusped shape, hinting at the form of a cushion case. This little detail, picked up directly from some examples of the period, tells the story which brought about the transformation from the Radiomir, created in 1936, with a classic cushion case, to the Luminor, more massive in its proportions and identified by the device protecting the winding crown.

Another element of great interest is the absolute purity of the black dial, with the large numerals at the cardinal points, on which the words “Luminor Panerai” are engraved in the lettering of the time. The clarity and legibility of the dial are enhanced by its sandwich structure, being formed of two superimposed plates enclosing a layer of Super-LumiNova® which guarantees a high degree of luminosity. The dial is protected not by a sapphire crystal but by a Plexiglas® one, similar to the polymethyl methacrylate used in the historic models.

The movement of the Luminor 1950 Left-Handed 3 Days is the hand-wound P.3000 calibre with a power reserve of three days, completely developed and made in the Officine Panerai manufacture at Neuchâtel. With a diameter of 161⁄2 lignes, the calibre has a distinctive structure with wide bridges, two spring barrels which provide the power reserve of three days and a balance wheel 13.2 mm in diameter. The P.3000 calibre also has the rapid time-changing device, by means of which the hour hand is moved in jumps of one hour at a time, without interfering with the minute hand or the running of the watch.

The Luminor 1950 Left-Handed 3 Days (PAM00557) is water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres (10 atmospheres). It is fitted with strap of natural, untreated leather, fastened by a brushed steel buckle inspired by that of the period model. It is supplied with a second strap made of rubber and a spare Plexiglas® crystal.

Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, Panerai P.3000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 161⁄2 lignes, 5.3 mm thick, 21 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 21,600 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 160 components.

Functions: Hours, minutes.

Case: Diameter 47 mm, AISI 316L polished steel.

Bezel: Polished steel.

Back: See-through sapphire crystal.

Device protecting the crown: (protected as a trademark) Brushed steel.

Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.

Crystal: Plexiglas®, 3 mm thick.

Water-resistance: 10 bar (~ 100 metres).

Strap: PANERAI personalised leather strap and large-size brushed steel buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable strap, second Plexiglas® and a steel screwdriver.

Reference: PAM00557.

Officine Panerai Introduces All-New Panerai P.5000 8 Days Movement

...SIHH 2014 Coverage...

Officine Panerai Introduces 
All-New Panerai P.5000 8 Days Movement

Probably the most outstanding news from SIHH 2014 is the introduction of the all-new Panerai P.5000 8 Days Movement which is fitted in five new 44MM Panerai models, some of which are seen below.  Panerai is on schedule to bring all movements in house by 2017, which in many ways is the significance of the Panerai P.5000 movement. The first one we see, is the PAM00560:

Next up we see the Panerai PAM00561, which features a white dial with Arabic Numerals with round luminous markers.

LUMINOR 1950 CHRONO MONOPULSANTE LEFT-HANDED 8 DAYS TITANIO – 47mm

...SIHH 2014 Coverage...

Officine Panerai Introduces 
All-New Panerai Chronograph Model

LUMINOR 1950 CHRONO MONOPULSANTE LEFT-HANDED 8 DAYS TITANIO 
47mm PAM00579
Unique edition of 300 units 

At SIHH Panerai just launched this new 47MM Chronograph with a case made out of titanium, which has a reference number of PAM00579.

The following information came from Panerai's Official Press Release:

LUMINOR 1950 CHRONO MONOPULSANTE LEFT-HANDED 8 DAYS TITANIO – 47mm

Every detail of the Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio tells a piece of the history of Panerai watches. The new Special Edition, a unique edition limited to 300 units, reunites many of the characteristics designed and developed in the course of the thirties and forties for the Panerai watches made for the commandos of the Royal Italian Navy, integrating them perfectly with the technical solutions and materials of high quality contemporary sports watchmaking.

The Luminor 1950 case of the new chronograph has a detail which has a striking effect on the design of the watch, derived from some of the historic models: the winding crown and the device for protecting it are fitted on the left side. The reason for this choice lies in the history of Panerai, which more than 70 years ago produced examples designed for commandos who preferred to wear the watch on the right wrist, with the compass and depth gauge on the other wrist. To keep the shape of the device protecting the crown aesthetically pure, the push-piece which controls all the chronograph functions is positioned on the right side of the watch, at two o’clock. In spite of the case diameter of 47 mm, a classic size of the period models which were worn over the diving suit, its weight has been substantially reduced through the choice of titanium, a material which among other things is strongly resistant to corrosion and is also hypo-allergenic.

Other elements which have their roots in the history of Panerai are the cambered crystal protecting the dial and the structure of the dial itself, which is formed of two superimposed plates enclosing the luminous substance, visible through the holes cut in the upper part corresponding to the indexes. This structure, combined with the legendary cleanness of the dial design, ensures the greatest clarity and legibility even under the poorest lighting conditions.

Through the transparent back the hand-wound P.2004/9 movement can be seen, revealing details of its original construction with large brushed finish bridges, chamfered and polished angles and screws with a mirror-polished finish. With its three spring barrels, the movement is supplied with a constant force for eight consecutive days and the power reserve indicator is on the back of the movement, so as to keep the design of the dial as minimalist as possible.

Prominent among the functions of the Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio is the chronograph, which has a single push-piece to operate the starting, stopping and zeroing of the time interval being measured. Fitted with a column wheel, a component used in the most sophisticated movements because it provides the greatest accuracy, the chronograph also has a friction clutch, which avoids any uncertainty in the movement of the chronograph hand. The minutes counter at nine o’clock stands out immediately because the hand does not move continuously but in jumps: it clicks forward one position as each minute is recorded. 
The P.2004/9 calibre is also fitted with the device for zeroing the seconds hand, which stops and zeroes the small seconds hand instantly when the crown is pulled out. The hand will not start moving again until the winding crown is returned to its original position, thus enabling the watch to be synchronised to the exact second, for example with a time signal.

The Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante Left-Handed 8 Days Titanio (PAM00579) is supplied with a strap of natural leather and a second strap made of rubber, as well as the screwdriver for replacing the buckle and the special tool for changing the strap. The watch is water-resistant to 10 atmospheres (equivalent to a depth of about 100 metres). 

SIHH 2014 Coverage: All New Panerai Chronograph

...SIHH 2014 Coverage...

Officine Panerai Introduces 
Three All-New Panerai Chronograph Models 
with Radiomir 1940 Case

Today is the first day of SIHH and Officine Panerai Just launched three all-new 45MM Chronograph models based upon their 1940 Case. These models are going to be EXTREMELY rare and are being produced in very small quantities. The first one below is a Reference PAM00518 which features an Ivory white dial with a Platinum case, and this model is limited to only 50 Units.

Next we see the PAM00519 which comes in Rose Gold with a chocolate brown dial, coupled with a California Art-Deco dial. Panerai is only making 100 of this model.

Next we see the PAM00520 in White Gold, and it is also limited to 100 units. One of the interesting and unique features of this particular model is that is has a sandwich dial. Just to be crystal clear, this mode has the same idiocies as the platinum version of this watch, but the Platinum version has painted or applied indices, where this one has holes cut in the dial, that have a lume plate underneath–subtle, but very cool details.

The following comes directly from the Official Officine Panerai Press Release:

RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRAPH PLATINO – 45mm RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRAPH ORO ROSSO – 45mm RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRAPH ORO BIANCO – 45mm

Officine Panerai presents a new chronograph of the highest quality, incorporating a fascinating combination of design, technology and history: the Radiomir 1940 Chronograph. This is available in three versions in different precious metals, platinum (PAM00518), red gold (PAM00519) and white gold (PAM00520).

In the new chronographs the Radiomir 1940 case, 45 mm in diameter, has the simple, elegant lines developed by Panerai in about 1940, the time when the classic cushion case with the wire loop strap attachments of the first Radiomir started to acquire the more massive proportions of the Luminor 1950 case. Every detail of the 1940 case has a polished finish, including the two push-buttons controlling the chronograph functions, the cylindrical winding crown and the bezel. This bezel frames a crystal made of Plexiglas®, a material similar to that used in the original models created by Panerai for the Royal Italian Navy, which had a polymethyl methacrylate crystal.

The dial of the new Radiomir 1940 Chronograph is a new and original design, inspired by the history of the brand but also by the function of the watch, and it has some subtle variations depending on to the metal of the case. The red gold version has a brown dial with the combination of graphic hour markers, Roman and Arabic numerals that has acquired the name California, adopted by the Radiomir of 1936. The platinum version has the ivory dial, with simple baton or dot hour markers, and the same design distinguishes the black dial of the white gold version. The latter has a dial with the sandwich structure, formed of two superimposed plates with the luminous material between them, visible through holes corresponding to the hour markers. Common to all three versions is the tachymeter scale for calculating average speed and the two chronograph counters.

The movement of the new Radiomir 1940 Chronograph is the OP XXV calibre, developed on a Minerva 13-22 base. The Minerva manufacture has had historic links with Panerai since the 1920s, when the Swiss manufacturer was a supplier to the Florentine watchmaker. The OP XXV calibre is a hand-wound chronograph with a diameter of 123⁄4 lignes. Its construction is extremely sophisticated, with high quality details such as the column wheel, the swan-neck regulator, the polishing and chamfering of the individual components, and the Côtes de Genève finish of the bridges. The high level of craftsmanship can be appreciated through the large sapphire crystal porthole in the back, which allows the movement to be admired.

The new Radiomir 1940 Chronograph are produced in a unique edition limited to 100 examples for each of the gold versions and 50 examples for the platinum version. They are supplied with an alligator strap and are water-resistant to a depth of 50 metres.