Wednesday, August 28, 2013

William Jefferson Clinton 42nd President of the United States

50th Anniversary Celebration

March On Washington
August 28, 1963

William Jefferson Clinton
42nd President of the United States

 Brushed Titanium Luminor Panerai 
 44MM Reference PAM00089 GMT
Limited Edition of 2500 Pieces

Earlier this week I ran as story about former U.S. President, Bill Clinton, and just today, I noticed him wearing his his Panerai PAM 89 GMT when he gave a speech today on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial in Washington D.C., is celebration of the 50th Anniversary of the March on Washington Speech. 

Monday, August 26, 2013

Historic Panerai Luminor PAM00372 v. Vintage Panerai 6152-1

Panerai Comparative Analyses

Historic Panerai Luminor PAM00372 
Vintage Panerai 6152-1

As you know, I have been working on a super-detailed review of the recently released Panerai PAM00372, which today is considered one of the most historically accurate contemporary Panerai watch models. We begin with examining a photo taken by Ben Jones comparing an original vintage 1955 Luminor Panerai 6152-1 next to a Historic Panerai PAM00372 sold in 2012.

A Grandfather next to his Grandson

Just to be clear, the watch pictured above on the left is a vintage Panerai Reference 6152-1 which was made 58 years ago in 1955, and was an Italian Royal Navy military secret, and was never made available to the public.  The watch pictured on the right is a currently available to the public and it is a Panerai Luminor model named the HISTORIC LUMINOR PANERAI 1950 3 DAYS

At first glance the watches almost look identical, but when you drill down into the details, we can see many differences.  The PAM 372 has tan lume on the classic 3, 6, 9 and 12 Markers, as well as on the eight straight 5 minute markers, as well as on the hands. I like to think of the tan hands and markers as the watch having a beautiful bronze suntan. Contrast this with the vintage 6152-1 having mint-green lume. Obviously, the PAM 372 has a more antique looking patina, which is stunningly beautiful.

Angelo P, took these first three photos of a new Historic Panerai Luminor next to its archetypical father, the venerable Vintage Panerai 6152-1. 

As we can see in the photo below, the PAM00372 is much shorter,  trimmer and more streamlined at 16.4MM tall, than its father, the Panerai 6152-1, which is pictured on the right side at a whopping 19.1MM tall. Obviously the 6152-1 has way thicker lugs, and a much thicker case back, as well as a much taller and more curved or convexed crystal.

An obvious question, is why doesn't Panerai make a watch identical in every way to the original 6152-1? Who knows, maybe one day, the will? My best guess is that Panerai tried to make the PAM 372 more comfortable and more universally appealing. 

Also, for many people that are used to wearing watches that are between 34MM and 40MM, jumping up to a now standard 44MM Panerai is quite a change at first, and takes some getting used to. Even going from 44MM to 47MM, seems like a big jump at first, but once you get used to the 47MM, at least in my mind, the 44MM watches seem almost too small.

As a designer, I am am fascinated with details, and I can only speculate about why Panerai made the watch skinnier, and when I do, Ancient 18th Century Japanese Zen Haiku poet, Matsuo Basho's famous notion comes to mind, where he famously wrote: "We do not seek to imitate the masters; rather we seek what they sought." In other words, it appears that Panerai today seeks to further improve upon the magnificently timeless 1950s design language.

Marina Militare 6152/1 Comparison

Ryan took these superb photos of his Panerai Marina Militare Reference 6152/1 next to his Panerai PAM00372. If you are not familiar with the Marina Militare dial designation, is was simply another dial designation put on some of their dials instead of Luminor Panerai, or Radiomir Panerai. In other words, the watch below with the Marina Militare dial designation is identical in every way to the 6152-1 pictured above, it just has a different inscription of its dial.

In the photo below you can see the Rolex movement which is a Caliber 618 (Type 4), and notice the "BREV. ITAL." engraving on the back of the Tight Seal Crown Guard protector. "BREV" stands for Brevet, which means "Patented". This watch was made in 1953. Ironically, this engraving inspired Panerai to engrave the "REG. T.M." engraving on the opposite topside of the PAM00372.

Saturday, August 24, 2013

Wrist Shot Of The Day...Panerai PAM372

...Wrist Shot Of The Day...

Panerai PAM372

I took this photo of the Panerai PAM00372 in my back yard this last spring, and I just came across it in my unpublished Panerai archive, so I thought I would share it with you. I remember when I took this shot, tripping on how beautiful the contrast was between the super green vegetation and the beautiful brown Panerai Ranger strap. I can never seem to get enough of the Panerai PAM372!!!

Monday, August 19, 2013

Panerai Jupiterium

...Panerai Studio Shot Of The Day...

Panerai Jupiterium

Sunday, August 18, 2013

Luminor Base Panerai 44MM Reference PAM00112

...Panerai Studio Shot Of The Day...

Chris' Luminor Base Panerai 
44MM Reference PAM00112

Friday, August 16, 2013

Adrien Brody-Youngest Actor In History To Win The Academy Award For Best Actor

...Panerai Coolness...

Adrien Brody
Youngest Actor In History To Win 
The Academy Award For Best Actor

Cover of 2006 Men's Vogue Magazine

PANERAI Contemporary Luminor GMT
Titanium & Steel 44MM Reference PAM00161

The Brothers Bloom Movie

Panerai Luminor

We see Adrien Brody below starring in The Brothers Bloom and he is wearing a Luminor Panerai on a Leather Strap.

Academy Award Winner For Best Actor
The Pianist (2002)

Sunday, August 11, 2013

Anatomy Of A Vintage Panerai MARINA MILITARE...

Anatomy Of A Vintage Panerai

Reference 6152/1 Made in the 1940s
17 Jewel Rolex Movement with 8MM Rolex Brevet Crown

Today we are going to closely examine a stunningly beautiful vintage Panerai that was made in the late 1940s for the Italian Royal Navy. This watch has the Italian Royal Navy designation on the Dial which reads: "MARINA MILITARE." In case you are not familiar with the vintage Panerai watches with the "MARINA MILITARE" designation on the dial, they were made for the Italian Royal Navy, and lack any kind of "Panerai" designation on the entire watch. In other words, this watch is 100% pure Panerai, it just does not say so on the watch.

All the photos in this article were taken by Matthew Bain, and they showcase a very, very rare vintage Panerai model which has a "MM" engraving on the back, with a military issue number.

It appears that all the parts on this watch are original. Notice the hands have an interesting patina where they have oxidized over time and the hour hand almost has a sunburst pattern on it. This watch has the serial number 124XXX engraved between the top lugs, and the 6152 1 Reference number engraved between the lower lugs.

The photos below show this beauty from both side views of the case. The first image below shows the 8MM Rolex BREVET winding crown. Keep in mind that Rolex made this watch  for Panerai, which explains why the winding crown has the Rolex five-finger hand winding crown.

From a design perspective, this watch is outrageously beautiful in its simplicity. The 1940s watch case was super-streamlined in every way, yet very masculine. The case is almost identical to the 6152 which has the "Tight Seal Device", but it has the Rolex Brevet winding crown instead.

In my personal opinion, the only vintage Panerai watch ever made, that is more beautiful that this, is the super-iconic Radiomir Panerai Reference 6154 "Small Egiziano" which was made for the Egyptian Navy. The Panerai 6152/1 and the Panerai 6154 are remarkably similar in case design, but the 6154 is skinnier and even more streamlined that the 6152/1.

The photo below shows the 12 sided case-back which has the original Italian Royal Navy Military Issue Number engraving which reads "S.M.Z" on the first line, and "M.M. 103" on the bottom.

The next image below shows the Panerai 6152/1 with the case-back removed, and it appears to have a movement cover which may have been designed to improve anti-magnetic performance.

In the next photo below, we see the 17 Ruby Mechanical Rolex Movement, which is remarkably simple, sturdy, accurate, and durable.

Pictured below we see the inside of the screw-out case back, which has twelve sides. Notice inside is says "Montres Rolex S.A., Geneva, Switzerland, Patented. Stainless Steel. Swiss Made. 6152 1.
One of the most interesting details that sets every single vintage Panerai apart, is how different the patina is, both on the dial and the hands. The unique patina on everywatch is unique and almost like a fingerprint.  This particular watch lume has not darkened or changed very much. The Arabic numeral markers are still bright white, which give the watch a precise, fresh look. The hans also look really cool.

Friday, August 9, 2013

Stana Katic

...Panerai Hotness...

Stana Katic
2004 Limited Edition 
Radiomir Panerai Black Seal
45MM PAM00183 G Series

Stana Katic is an actress. She started as Detective Kate Beckett on ABCs Castle. She also played Hana Gitelman in Heroes, and Collete Stenger in season 5 of the TV show 24. She also has a distinguished career on the big screen, and played Corrine Veneau in the James Bond Movie, Quantum Of Solace.

Stana Katic is wearing a rare limited edition 45MM G-Series Panerai which was made in 2004, and was limited to only 1500 units. This model is distinguished by having the "Black Seal" designation above the 6 o'clock marker. 

The G-Series Panerai PAM00183 has a manual wind mechanical movement with 56 hour power reserve. The sandwich dial is midnight black, and the watch has a Sapphire crystal on the front and back of the watch. Also, the Black Seal has black hands with white lume. I included a close-up show below that shows the Black  Seal in detail on a beautiful brown Panerai Strap.

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Still Working On My PAM00372 Super Detailed Review...

Still Working On My PAM00372
Super Detailed Review

If you follow Jake's Panerai World, you know my favorite Panerai is the PAM00372, and I have been working on writing a super detailed review of that covers all things PAM00372, So today I thought I would share some wrist shots of the PAM 372 on an OEM Gold Cashmere Panerai strap, which comes as the second strap when you purchase a 372. I can't get enough of this beauty!!! You can't see it in these photos, but one of the coolest features of the Gold Cashmere Panerai Strap is that the sides of it match the antique tan lume which is so awesome looking...

Monday, August 5, 2013

Jason Statham Panerai PAM00312

...Panerai Coolness...

Jason Statham

Luminor Marina 
Panerai PAM00312

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Vintage Panerai Big Crown Models In Taiwan

...Panerai Studio Shot Of The Day...

Vintage Panerai Big Crown Models In Taiwan

"Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication." –Leonardo da Vinci

This amazing photo shows a new highly limited edition Panerai (Reference PAM00399: Limited To 100 Examples], next to two very rare vintage Panerai watches that were taken by RolexFan at the 2013 Taiwan Paneristi Spring GTG. The two models on the right are vintage Panerai models, and I think one is a 6152/2, an the other is a 6154. The highly limited edition PAM00399 is beautiful, and when I first looked at it, I mistook it for an original vintage piece.

The PAM00399 uses a case design that Panerai refers to as a 1940 Radiomir Case, apposed to the 1950 Luminor Case, which features the half-cresent trademark crown-gaurd, which Panerai originally referred to as the Tight Seal Device when they filed their American patent application in 1956 . Just to be crystal clear, the 1940 Radiomir Case has an 8mm winding crown, and the 1950 Luminor case has the larger, more protective crown guard which is the cornerstone of modern Panerai design.

It appears, with Panerai recently introducing the 1940s case, that they will keep going with it, and hopefully use it to bring back, what in my personal opinion is the most beautiful vintage Panerai ever made, the Reference 6154. The PAM00399 pictured above, comes pretty close to the 6154, and if it simply had an Arabic numeral 9, in place of the second hand, we would in effect have the most beautiful Panerai ever made.

Don't get me wrong, because I love the half-cresent crown guard found on the PAM00372, I just also love the minimalist design of the 8mm winding crown. Kind of like choosing between a vintage 1969 Lamborghini Mura, and a Ferrari California Spider ;-) Both are stunningly gorgeous, and I love them both for slightly different reasons.

Note: How can you tell which of the watches pictured above are vintage Panerai watches, and which one is a new model? The new models typically have an engraving on the front of the case, located between the lugs, and as you see in the photo above, the first watch has such an engraving, and the second two don't.

I LOVE the split lume bars on the minute hand on the PAM00399. This is an example of the detail that makes the Panerai design so outstanding...

Friday, August 2, 2013

Orlando Bloom Rockin' A 47MM Panerai PAM00249

...Panerai Coolness...

Orlando Bloom
Rockin' A 47MM Panerai PAM00249

In 2005 Orlando Bloom starred in a movie named Elizabethtown, where he sported a Luminor Panerai Reference PAM00127, which features a classic 1950 case. I published an article last October that showed Orlando Bloom wearing that beautiful watch, so when I found this image of Orlando Bloom sporting a PAM00249 back in 2007, I thought it looked super-cool on him!!! The more time goes by, the more I really like the classic and super-simple uncluttered California Dial, which is an true Art-Deco masterpiece.

The photo below taken by Luc shows a PAM00249 up close, and it is renowned by many Panerai collectors as being the quintessential Panerai. The blue hands with the tan lume on the California dial markers is an absolute winner, not to mention the fact the dial has no branding whatsoever on the dial, make it stunningly simple and low-key.

The PAM00249 was a special edition Panerai limited to 1936 units made in 2006, and was an enormously successful watch. It was argued at the time, that it was the most historically accurate made to date. Last year, Panerai made a somewhat similar model which was the reference PAM00448.